Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Ask not for whom the cock crows

posted Mon, 20 Sep 2004

You know those movies where they show the guy in the sports car (usually someone James Bond-esque) zipping along the Amalfi coast, carefree and laughing with the beautiful woman by his side? (And her hair is never whipping in her eyes.) Well, those movies are LYING. No one zips along that coast. Why? Because there is so much traffic that it is impossible to go more than 15 kph – and that’s when you are actually moving. Most of the time, you are standing still, waiting for the car ahead of you to move a few inches.

We did not see this part of Naples.
Source: http://nancyimperiale.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/tours_in_naples_italy_2.jpg

Maybe it was our situation. We managed to hit the highway the one time in about two years that there was a rockslide. Given that there is only one road from Napoli (that’s how the cognescenti say it) to Sorrento, and that this road is about as wide (or narrow) as spaghetti, there is not much to be done when there is a rockslide except make cars take turns driving around it. I would have thought actually removing the rocks might be an option, but perhaps they are considering that.

So. We arrived in Napoli yesterday afternoon after flying from Catania to Roma. Now, perhaps the Napoli train station is not representative of the rest of the city, but I will say this: The Napoli train station is a pit. An absolute pit. It is filthy. It reeks of urine. There is so much litter that you can barely see the ground in some places. Jenny and I were appalled. Oh. Did I mention the dog poop everywhere?

Odelia from Mami Camilla picked us up. We didn’t make much conversation with her. I did not want to distract her from her driving, which was, as we are in Italy, Italian. It’s like they are all playing one giant game of chicken. Jenny had offered to sit in the back seat, but I told her I really didn’t want to be able to see what was going on.

Mami Camilla is a lovely sprawling place in Sant’Angello, just next to Sorrento. When we arrived, about 20 guests were on the patio eating dinner. The main dish was chicken. Two of the roosters got the axe. I am praying that the rest are on tonight’s menu. Did you know that roosters crow not only at dawn but also at all hours of the night? Yes, it’s true. And their piercing call can be heard through earplugs.

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